Historic Cookery

Once again, the “Remember the Ladies” weekend event will be
held this year at the Old Barracks Museum in Trenton, NJ. The
dates are June 12 and 13, 2010.

It’s a fun get-together with other like-minded folks interested
in all things 18th century. I encourage one and all to mark your
calendars now and sign up!

And yes, I will be there, but only for Sunday. I have an historic
cooking gig on the 12th out at Wyckoff. dagnabit! There’s just
too many programs scheduled at the same time. Ahh well,
such is life, ay?!

In any event, contact Wendy Moyer at wendymoyer@verizon.net
for more info and registration materials.

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Ladies who lunch, 21st century-style (complete with canned drinks!):

HUZZAH!

Finally, what everyone’s been waiting for…the chickens in bladders
being prepared for serving. HUZZAH!

Ladies and gents, our lovely birds encased in bladders:

A little delicate surgery:

Carefully removing the bladder:

The spent bladder:

Now the other one:

Mmmmmmm…chicken:

Hungry, yet?

Then LET’S EAT!

To recap, all our dishes were made using these 18th century receipts:

A Liver Pudding boiled;
To make Pork Pudding, or Beef, &c. [makes a thin crust for the pudding];
To boil a Piece of Beef the Poor Man’s Way;
To make Pork Griskins;
To Make Apple Sauce;
Turnip Pie;
A Dripping Crust [for the pie]; and
Pullets, Capons, or Chickens in Bladders.

Our day of cooking in the kitchens of Pennsbury Manor following Deb
Peterson’s annual Historic Foodways Symposium was a HUGE success.
I am SO glad that I was able to participate. It was an enjoyable and
educational experience (with a yummy meal, to boot). A rousing
HUZZAH to our intrepid leader Clarissa!

Time to eat!

Well, almost.

Yep, we’re finally nearing the end of preparations
for all the dishes made during the hearth cooking
workshop that was held after Deb Peterson’s
Historic Foodways Symposium. HUZZAH!

First, though, let’s look at the other dishes we made.

We’ll begin with the Turnip Pie. Consisting of mutton
pieces, it’s topped with chopped turnips and a sliced onion:

A crust was to be placed on top, but, owing to the lack of flour, it had to be
made of bread crumbs. Then into a bake kettle to cook on the hearth:

The pork griskins broiling on a gridiron set over coals near the fire:

Clarissa checks the receipt booklet to make sure we’ve not missed anything:

Finally, everything was ready. Time to take it all up to the conference
room in Pennsbury Manor’s Visitors Center. Dinner is served!

All the dishes set out on the tables:

Here’s the Piece of Beef the Poor Man’s Way:

The Turnip Pie:

The Liver Pudding:

Apple Sauce:

and the Pork Griskins:

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Up next: Serving (finally!) the Chickens in Bladders

The chickens in bladders are done. HUZZAH!

They’re taken off the fire. First one:

Then the other:

Don’t they look lovely?! Like two rubber balls. And yes, they DO bounce!
(How do I know? Well…one fell to the floor and…yep.)

Here’s our instructor Clarissa posing with the bladders:

The chickens will be “sent to table,” still in their bladders, on a bed
of sweetbreads and the remaining stuffing. First, the sweetbreads
are blanched, cut into roughly inch-long pieces, and then arranged
around the perimeter of a platter:

After cooking it, the stuffing is placed in the center:

The chickens, again, still encased in their bladders, are placed on top:

After the second one is set, the entire dish is garnished with lemon slices:

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Here’s the receipt (recipe) we used. It’s from Charles Carter’s The Complete
Practical Cook (London, 1730):

PULLETS, CAPONS, or CHICKENS in Bladders.

Take Ox-Bladders that are ready dry’d,
and put them into warm Water to supple
them: Cut off the Necks of the Bladders,
to make Room for your Fowl to go in,
but be sure to leave Room enough
to tie them up close; then let your
Fowl be drawn, singed, and truss’d
to boil, the Legs* cut off, and truss’d
close: Take Oysters, if three Fowls,
to each a Quart, to a Chicken a Pint,
set them, and beard them; take Lumps
of Marrow, Chestnuts blanch’d, or
Pistachoe-Nut Kernels; season with
Pepper, Salt, and Nutmeg, Thyme
and Parsly minc’d, and a little Onion;
work this up together with grated
Bread, a little Cream, and the Yolks
of Eggs, and fill the Bellies full of it,
and force under the Skin of the Breast
with a little light forc’d meat: Put them
in your Bladders, and tie them up fast,
leaving Room that the Bladders may
not break; boil them well, for they
will require as much more boiling
as without Bladders; then make
a Coolio with a Sweetbread or two,
a few Cocks-combs, a few Morelles
and Trouffles; do not make it too
thick; pout it in the Bottom of your
Dish; lay your Fowl on it: You may
cut off the Bladders, when they are
cut up, the inside Forceing will mix
with the Coolio: Garnish with Forc’d-
meat and sliced Orange or Lemon,
and serve it away hot.

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Up next: dinner is served

Each dish made during this past Sunday’s hearth cooking workshop
was quite intriguing. As you recall, the class was held in conjunction
with Deb Peterson’s Historic Foodways Symposium at Pennsbury Manor.
Again, our instructors were Past Masters members Clarissa Dillon and
Mercy Ingraham.

My favorite, however, of the six items prepared Sunday was the Pullets,
Capons, or Chickens in Bladders. I was just fascinated with the entire
process, and I can’t wait to try it myself. The trick, of course, will be
hunting down those cow bladders! I think I have a few ideas, though.

In the meantime, here are more photos from the workshop.

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Clarissa with the cow bladders:

First, the bladders had to be trimmed of extraneous “stuff” and stretched.
Next, finely minced veal and suet forcemeat was placed between the skin
and the meat of two chickens (in this case, Cornish game hens). A mixture
of oysters, chestnuts, bone marrow, herbs, spices, and more, was then
stuffed into their bellies. Finally, each bird was squeezed into a bladder:

Now, to tie off the bladders, first one:

Then the other:

Into the pot they go:

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Up next: plating the chickens in bladders

To continue with photos from this past Sunday’s
hearth cooking workshop in the re-constructed
kitchens of Pennsbury Manor, here are additional
photos of A Liver Pudding boiled. Cooking has
been completed, so now it’s time to remove it
from the kettle. Again, Clarissa Dillon of Past
Masters in Early American Domestic Arts
led the way.

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The receipt (recipe), from Hannah Glasse’s The Art of Cookery Made
Plain and Easy (1747):

A Liver Pudding boiled.

Take the Liver of a Sheep when you kill one,
and cut it as thin as you can, and chop it;
mix it with as much Suet shread fine, and
half as many Crumbs of Bread or Bisket
Grated, season it with some Sweet Herbs
shread fine, and a little Nutmeg grated,
a little beaten Pepper, and an Anchovy
shred fine; mix all together with a little
Salt, or the Anchovy Liquor, with a Piece
of Butter; fill the Crust,* and close it; boil
it three Hours.

*To make a Pork Pudding, or Beef, &c.

Make a good Crust with the Dripping, or
Mutton-suet if you have it, shread fine,
make a thick Crust,…put it [the pudding]
into this Crust, and roll it up close, tye it
in a Cloth and boil it; if about four or five
Pounds, boil it five hours.

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Up next: Pullets, Capons, or Chickens in Bladders.

Sunday’s (February 28) hearth cooking class at Pennsbury Manor
was a delightful (and delicious!) event. Held in conjunction with
Deb Peterson’s Historic Foodways Symposium, it was conducted
by Past Masters in Early American Domestic Arts, with two of its
members, Clarissa Dillon and Mercy Ingraham, leading the way.

The focus of our menu was the same as that of the Symposium,
namely, meats. Receipts from several historic cookbooks were
used, and they included: Pullets, Capons, or Chickens in Bladders;
A Liver Pudding boiled; To boil a Piece of Beef the Poor Man’s
Way; Turnip Pie; A Dripping Crust (to accompany the pie);
To make Pork Griskins; and To Make Apple Sauce.

As you can imagine, I took dozens of photos. I then spent most
of Monday sorting them out, downloading them, and so forth.
I’ll post them all within the next few days. Preparations will
be shown first, with the finished dishes following later.

Let’s get started!

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Our illustrious instructor Clarissa:

Up first, the liver pudding. The meat is chopped, mixed with suet,
herbs, spices, bread crumbs, etc., and all is minced fine:

The linen pudding cloth:

The liver mixture is laid in the prepared cloth, and it is tied:

All tied up and ready to cook:

Into the pot of boiling water it goes:

Yesterday’s third annual Historic Foodways Symposium was
wonderful, as always. Right now, however, I have good news:
I’ll be participating in the second open hearth cooking workshop
today. HUZZAH! All is right again with the world. Be sure
to check back later for a report.

In the meantime, enjoy some photos of Pennsbury Manor:

I registered for Deb Peterson’s Historic Foodways Symposium
back in December (2009). It’s today (Saturday). I also signed
up, and paid extra, to participate in an open hearth cooking
workshop on the Friday prior (yesterday). Then came the
threat of yet another snowstorm. An e-mail was sent this
past Wednesday to all attendees stating that the Symposium
was definitely on, and that, despite the impending storm,
“driving will not be a problem,” “roads will be clear,” and,
oh, there’d be no refunds for those who cancel. This brief
missive ended with, “Don’t let a little snow keep you from
the foodie event of the year!” Whew. Disaster averted.

So, Thursday afternoon, during the falling rain/snow/rain
glop, I boarded a train and left the amazingly clear streets
and slushy sidewalks of NYC.

The train was on time, and it was clear sailing the entire trip.
I even noticed conditions of the landscape along the way: snow
on grassy areas; streets good ‘n clear (although a bit wet).

I arrived at the hotel in short order. Streets were remarkably clear,
no problems whatsoever. I checked in, and as I finished, I’m told
that a message is waiting for me. Oh? Yes: “Friday’s hearth cooking
class has been cancelled.”

SAY WHAT?!? So I didn’t need to come down today (Thursday)?
I could’ve waited until tomorrow? I could’ve saved myself the added
hotel expense? What will I do, stuck in this place out in the middle
of nowhere for an entire day? What will I do about meals? Seemed
if I could get down here with no hassle…. And then there was that
e-mail…how if I cancel…what about you?! dagnabit

Oh well…whaddaya gonna do? Just bide my time ’til Saturday, I guess.

So, Friday morning I went down to breakfast. Not many people around.
I figured, I’d eat, then go back up to the room and read or watch TV.
Two things that I can do at home, BTW! No need to come down here!

However…the tide began to turn. As I was eating, a gal came over
to speak to me. Was I part of the Symposium group? Yes! Well,
so was she and two others. We then sat together and chatted
non-stop about this, shared information about that, and had
the most enjoyable and worthwhile conversations. Soon we
were joined by two others, and a larger group formed. Time
flew by unnoticed. The cancelled cooking class was all but
forgotten (almost, but not quite!). Next thing you know,
the sun was shining and the skies had cleared. So we all
decided to bundle up and venture out. There was mention
of an antique shop nearby. Cool. Let’s go! We did, and,
wow. What a find!

The shop is housed in an 18th century stone barn which sits
on a lovely little piece of property. Together with a house and
several other outbuildings, it presented a snowy scene worthy
of a picture postcard. We were met by Clarence L. Prickett, who
runs the shop with his two sons. A simply amiable fellow, he
eagerly showed us the different pieces of 18th and early 19th
century American furniture within the shop. Everything was
just exquisite! Chairs, highboys, dining tables, card tables,
paintings, mirrors, grandfather clocks, and more. Mr. Prickett
warmly offered information and answered questions regarding
any object. We, of course, each selected our favorite piece, all
to be purchased, naturally, with our next (somewhat illusive)
lottery winnings!

A page from the newly-printed 2010 catalog of C.L. Prickett
Fine Authenticated American Antiques (emphasis on “fine”!):

Of course, we asked Mr. Prickett about the history of the shop
and its building, as well as of the house and the property as
a whole. We spoke to him both in groups and individually.
The next thing you know, he is graciously asking if we’d like
to see the inside of his own home. Would we! YES!! And so,
off we went, on a most wonderful tour of the accompanying
stone house.

Built around 1820, Mr. Prickett and his late wife Laura (who sadly
passed just recently), bought it and the surrounding 23 acres
some 50-plus years ago. Much like the barn, it is filled with
beautiful antiques of every sort. Again, he shared information
about various pieces and answered any query we had. Of course,
what particularly caught our eye (being hearth cooks, all) was
the large former cooking hearth in the dining room. Well, that,
and the paintings done by Mr. Prickett, himself, which hang
throughout the home.

I think it safe to say, we all felt so privileged to have been given
such a personal tour. It was simply a lovely home, shown to us
by an even lovelier man. What a treat. What began as a dull and
awful day was made right. HUZZAH!

Our illustrious group, Michelle, Jen, Jeni, Carol, and Linda:

A couple-three years ago I found this gridiron on eBay:

Now, it’s quite similar to those offered by Historic Housefitters
and Landis Valley Museum, so it’s possibly just a reproduction.
At the same time, however, it’s rather uneven and wobbly and
looks handmade, so it may be a bona fide antique. It’s very like
these authentic examples on display at Colonial Williamsburg:

The one on the right has the same number of crossbars (seven).
They all appear to have some sort of keyhole handle. And the one
below has legs that’re straight like the ones on mine:

In any case, I have fun using it to roast fish, chicken, and more.
Another nice little treasure. Yep, sure is amazing what can be
found on good ol’ eBay. HUZZAH!