Archive for June, 2011

dagnabit. Where did the time go? I tell you, I can hardly
believe it. The month of June ends today. TODAY. Yep, it’s
about done ‘n gone, and July arrives tomorrow. Amazing.
Luckily, I’ve been busy all month, with one event after
another. HUZZAH! At the same time, however, because
of all that activity, I’ve fallen a bit behind on my blog
postings. Sacre bleu! So, please pardon me while
I attempt to catch up.


Okay. I began June by cooking at the hearth of The Israel
Crane House
for Kids’ Day. The theme of any and all kitchen
activities revolved around the dairy foods that might’ve graced

the table during an early 19th century spring and summer. So we
made curd fritters, churned butter, boiled eggs, and enjoyed some
vanilla-infused ice cream (which I’d made for a separate event).

First up, the curd batter, as specified by Eliza Smith’s receipt
in her cookbook, The Compleat Housewife (1750 ed.):

add a little saffron:

rendering suet (beef fat) to use for the frying:

fritters a-sizzlin’ in the skillet:

lookin’ mighty good:

ready to eat, plated up, and goin’ fast!:

Butter was churned, using our brand new historical reproduction
stoneware churn, made by my buddy Larry Gilliam, Master Potter
at Conner Prairie:

delicious “Crane House-made” butter on crackers:

another fantastic day of cooking at the Crane hearth comes to an end:

Cooking events at The Israel Crane House will resume in the fall.
Be sure to join us then! HUZZAH!

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I’ve made yet another minced meat pie. HUZZAH!

This time, it was for the recent (June 16) program
“Reconstructing Historic Royal Kitchens,” which was
presented by noted food historian Marc Meltonville
of England’s Hampton Court Palace. Sponsored jointly
by Culinary Historians of New York (CHNY) and NYC’s
Mount Vernon Hotel Museum (MVHM), the event took
place at the latter’s facility.

As usual, I followed the “mincd pie” receipt (recipe)
from Martha Washington’s Booke of Cookery, which
was transcribed by the late Karen Hess. Of course,
it fit in well with the evening’s program as the entire
book is connected to both time periods covered in Marc’s
presentation, the Tudor and the Georgian. The manuscript,
itself, was initially copied by an unknown hand at some
point in the 17th century. At the same time, it was in
Martha’s keeping during the 18th century, from 1749
to 1799.


Here is Martha’s receipt:

Take to 4 pound of ye flesh of a legg of veale,
or neats tongues, 4 pound of beefe suet,
2 pound of raysons stoned & shread,
3 pound of currans, halfe a pound or
more of sugar, 3 quarters of an ounce
of cloves, mace, nutmegg, & cinnamon,
beaten, halfe a dosin apples shread,
some rosewater, a quarter of a pint
o[f] muskadine or sack, some candied
orringe, leamon & citron pill minced.
shread yr meat & suet very fine, &
mingle all togethe[r]. for plaine
mincd pies, leave out ye fruit & put
in blanchd almond[s] minced small.


My pie is set out with the other dishes at MVHM:





NOTE: I cut down all ingredients by four (4), meaning one (1) pound
of veal, one (1) of suet, half a pound of “raysons,” and so on. Makes
for a more manageable one-pie filling.

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As I mentioned in my previous post, I also
made raspberry ice cream for the recent
session of the “Edible Conversations” series
that is held regularly at the Roger Smith Hotel.
As you may recall, Laura Weiss, author of Ice
Cream: A Global History
, was the event’s speaker.

This time, I used Eliza Leslie’s receipt (recipe)
for raspberry ice cream from her book 75 Receipts
for Pastry, Cakes, and Sweetmeats
(1828). Although
this batch was churned in my sorbetiere during the event, I had made
the mixture in advance. Things were a bit simpler this round, as well,
because Leslie’s raspberry isn’t custard-based and thus didn’t require
any eggs or cooking. HUZZAH!


the lovely raspberries:

mashed to a pulp and mixed with cream and some sugar:

pass it all through a sieve:

raspberry-infused cream:

ready to be made into some delicious ice cream:

raspberry remains:

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to take any pictures that night.
However, I did bring the leftovers home, and I managed to get
a few shots of this luscious and yummy raspberry ice cream.

I also filled a couple of small moulds (aka ramekins). Oooh, purty!

Of course, you’re supposed to take the ice cream OUT of the mould
before eating. I tried, but it didn’t work very well. Besides, I couldn’t
wait to dig in!


Here’s the complete receipt from 75 Receipts for Pastry, Cakes,
and Sweetmeats
, by A Lady of Philadelphia (Eliza Leslie):

A quart of rich cream.
Half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
The juice of two large lemons, or a pint
of strawberries or raspberries.


Put the cream into a broad pan, and squeeze
the lemon juice into it, or stir in gradually
the strawberries or raspberries, which must
first be mashed to a smooth paste. Then stir
in the sugar by degrees, and when all is well
mixed, strain it through a sieve.

Put it into a tin that has a close cover,
and set it in a tub. Fill the tub with ice
broken into very small pieces, and strew
among the ice a large quantity of salt,
taking care that none of the salt gets
into the cream. Scrape the cream down
with a spoon as it freezes round the
edges of the tin. When it is all frozen,
dip the tin in lukewarm water; take out
the cream, and fill your glasses; but
not till a few minutes before you want
to use it, as it will very soon melt.

You may heighten the colour of the red
fruit, by a little cochineal.


If you wish to have it in moulds, put
the cream into them as soon as it has
frozen in the tin. Set the moulds in
a tub of ice and salt. Just before
you want to use the cream, take the
moulds out of the tub, wipe or wash
the salt, carefully from the outside,
dip the moulds in lukewarm water, and
turn out the cream.

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I had an absolute blast making ice cream this past Monday eve
during the “Edible Conversations” series at Manhattan’s Roger
Smith Hotel
. The night’s session, “Ice Cream: A Global History,”
featured Laura Weiss, author of the book with the same title.
Of course, she was the star of the proceedings, and I merely
played the “sidekick” who briefly discussed and demonstrated
the 18th century method of ice cream making.

For the event, two types and flavors were shared with gathered
guests: a custard-based vanilla that I made in advance, using
a receipt (recipe) that Thomas Jefferson copied while in France;
and a simple raspberry from Eliza Leslie’s 75 Receipts for Pastry,
Cakes, and Sweetmeats
(1828), which I froze on the spot.

Incidentally, although unbeknownst to me at the time, both receipts
are included in the recipe section at the back of Weiss’ book. How
serendipitous was it that I selected those two?! I couldn’t have
planned it better. HUZZAH!

First up, making Jefferson’s receipt for “Ice Cream.” It’s custard-
based, made of egg yolks, sugar, and cream, all of which is infused
with a vanilla bean while cooking:


NEXT: The raspberry

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A dinner of ice cream. HUZZAH!


NEW UPDATE: The New York Times, June 1, 2011:


Ice cream from soup to nuts will be featured at a five-course
dinner on Monday from 6 to 8:30 p.m. at Manhattan’s Roger
Smith Hotel.

UPDATE: Carolina M Capehart of Historic Cookery will be making
ice cream the old fashioned way at the dinner. Samples will be
available for tasting!

If you’re food fantasy is an all ice cream dinner, then this event
may be for you. Laura Weiss, an Upper West Side author, will
also be speaking about ice cream around the world. Here are
the details:

Ice Cream: “Edible Conversations” at the Roger Smith Hotel

Where: 501 Lexington Avenue, New York; (212) 838-0844

When: June 6th, 2011, 6 – 8:30 p.m.

What: From Tallahassee to Tokyo: The Scoop on Ice Cream’s
Global Allure

Speaker: Laura Weiss

How much? Tickets: $45 for an ice cream-based multi-course
dinner and talk. Reserve a seat: icecreamglobal.eventbrite.com

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