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Posts Tagged ‘historic dishes’

I’ll be heading over to the Israel Crane House
again this coming Sunday (Dec. 4) to do some
more hearth cooking. I was just there exactly
four weeks ago (Nov. 6), but I tell you, it sure
seems like it was much longer! In any event,
I’m eager to return to the Crane kitchen.

Now, as you may recall, one of the dishes
I made last time was a pumpkin pudding.
When all was said and done, I found that
I had a small amount of leftover cut-up and cooked pumpkin. So
rather than make yet another pudding, I decided to dry it and
use it as a demonstration of preserving food for the winter. But,
wait a minute. In order to dry pumpkin, wouldn’t it normally be

cut up into little pieces, threaded on a string, and then hung
up to dry by a hearth or some other place? Just as is done
with apples or squash?

Why yes, that’s correct! And so unfortunately, I had a slight problem.
You see, the pumpkin in question had already been cooked slightly
AND mashed, as well as cut up. Oh no! There’s certainly no way
to string squishy pumpkin. So, I guess I was out of luck. There’d
be no drying of any pumpkin for me.

Ahhh, not so fast, dear readers! There IS another historic method
of drying pumpkin (or any squash, for that matter). All anyone need
do is follow the instructions Mrs. Lydia Child gives in the Appendix
of her cookbook The American Frugal Housewife (1833; 12th edition).
To wit:

Some people cut pumpkin, string it and
dry it like apples. It is a much better way
to boil and sift the pumpkin, then spread
it out thin in tin plates, and dry hard
in a warm oven. It will keep good all
the year round, and a little piece boiled
up in milk will make a batch of pies.

So that is what I did! Of course, once again, I did this at home,
using my modern equipment. In fact, I used my toaster oven,
as I didn’t want to fire up my stove’s huge oven just for a little
pumpkin drying. I did two batches. Both were done the same
way, except that one was strained through a sieve, and then
the other was put in the sieve merely to allow all the water
to drain out (it was then immediately spread out into the pan).
Time-wise, each took roughly seven to eight hours to dry.

Of course, the REAL trick will be trying it out by making a pie
or two. Supposedly, “a batch” can be made by boiling just
a piece of the dried pumpkin in milk. I’ll have to try it and
let everyone know how well (and if?) it works!

_______________

after hours and hours…

and hours and hours of drying:

the second batch, which remained in one piece:

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This past Sunday, I was once again cooking at the hearth
of the Israel Crane House over in Montclair, NJ. Despite
our recent Halloween snow storm and the lack of much
color on this area’s trees, it IS still fall! So I made these

season-appropriate dishes from American Cookery (1796)
by Amelia Simmons: a Pompkin [sic] pudding; and a few
Apple Tarts.

Now, due to limited weekend hours at the House, and
the fact that I have to lug my supplies over to Jersey
via public transportation, I did some prep work ahead
of time. Thus the pumpkin and the apples were pared,
cored, cut, and cooked down at home.

For the pudding, I had hoped to use a cheese pumpkin,
as it’s the most historically-correct. However, I couldn’t
find any (dagnabit!) this year, so I used a pie pumpkin.
A sugar pumpkin would work as well, although I’m not

sure that’s it not the exact same pumpkin. I’ve even seen
“use a sugar pie pumpkin” in some modern recipes! Your
common field pumpkins are probably not the best, as they
tend to be rather tough. Besides, they’re really only meant
for carving all those spooky jack o’lanterns.

For the tarts, I used Lady Apples, which have been around,
literally, for centuries. In fact, their first recorded use was
in Europe during the early 1600s. They were grown on this

continent, as well, and were highly popular from colonial times
into the 19th century. A fairly small apple, I’d say they’re much
more flavorful than other varieties. When they’re cooked down,
you can just smell the difference. It was amazing! Unfortunately,
they’re not widely available. I just happened on to them at one
of my local groceries, and so I bought several in order to make
these tarts.

OK. Enough of that. On to the cooking at Crane’s!

_______________

Everything’s on the table and ready to go:

First up, the Pompkin Pudding:

The pudding was indeed a pudding. It was light, airy, and
very custard-like. I’m not a fan of modern-day pumpkin pies,
as they tend to be dry and dense, but this…it was definitely
the opposite. HUZZAH!

We also offered up some lovely hot mulled cider:

Next, the Apple Tarts:

As you saw above, the pudding was similar to a pie in that
it had a crust (bottom only). I used the leftover dough to line
my tart pans:

The cooking’s done, the fire’s dying out. Time to head home.

____________________

NEXT: first, the recipes for the above and then (I promise!)
my other Yorkshire Pudding

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As yet another Thursday approaches,
I idly sit and ponder once again the
cancellation of my Fireside Feasts
open-fire historic cooking program
out at The Wyckoff Farmhouse
Museum
. This week’s session
would’ve (should’ve!) been
number three, meaning time
for the annual “Garden Goodies”
segment, wherein we would’ve made use of locally-grown
produce, including that of the Museum’s on-site gardens.
Ahhh, those were fun times!

And so, in honor of all those joyous hours spent toiling
over the fire, I thought I’d take a pictorial look back at
all we accomplished during the past four years of Fireside
Feasts
. I must say, the quantity, quality, and complexity
of the dishes we prepared was simply staggering! Not to
mention the amazing variety. Yes, we did it all, from basic
pancakes and corn dodgers to ice cream and cakes of every
size to boiled and baked puddings to oyster loaves, “jugged”
hares, and sausages. There was little that we didn’t attempt!
Most importantly, however, is the fact that each and every

dish was prepared using only an original, historic receipt (recipe)
from a 17th, 18th, or early 19th century cookbook, including
the manuscript writings of a Wyckoff family member. There
were NO “mo-dern” adaptaions here! And that fact alone made
my Fireside Feasts program truly unique among NYC’s historic
sites. Not to mention that we used historically-correct equipment
and ingredients, even if it meant buying and lugging the former
out to Wyckoff and/or making the latter myself (can you say
“mushroom ketchup”?!). Nowhere else was such historical
authenticity offered. Nor had it been before, or has it since.
And I’m extremely proud of that! HUZZAH!

_____________________

As you can imagine, I have dozens and dozens of photos. So my plan
is to share them over the course of several posts. Here is the first
set (in no particular order).

Queen cakes (before and after baking):

grating bread (dish prep was participatory, of course!):

the ubiquitous carrot pudding (baked):

hard boiling a few eggs:

yours truly tending corn cakes on the griddle:

the makings of a salamongundy:

fresh from the garden tomatoes:

pork cookin’ on the gridiron:

the beginnings of a bean tansey:

making lemonade…all together now, SQUEEZE!:

To be continued…

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