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Posts Tagged ‘Bradley’s The Country Housewife’

The hearth cooking class held at The Israel Crane House
this past Saturday was a tremendous success! HUZZAH!
We had a full roster of folks who eagerly participated in
the preparation, the cooking, and, of course, the EATING

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of the dishes that comprised our “Simple Mid-day Meal.”
The menu was designed to be appropriate for this winter
season, and its contents were concocted in accordance
with original receipts from several historic cookbooks.

Of course, as usual, my opportunities for picture-taking
were limited. You’ll find a few below, however, along
with the corresponding receipts and their sources.

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The central dish of our meal was a meat pie, courtesy
of Mrs. Lettice Bryan’s The Kentucky Housewife (1839):

A Chicken Pie.
Take two small chickens, (no other sort
being fit for a dish pie) cut them up in
small pieces, and season them with salt
and pepper. Line a deep dish with puff
paste, roll out another sheet tolerably
thin, and cut it into small squares; put
the chickens and dumplings in the dish,
in alternate layers; put in a pint of water
and four ounces of butter, that has been
rolled in flour, and broken up, put a paste
over the top, ornament it handsomely
round the edge with scolloped or
bake it in a moderate oven.

Beautiful!

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Into the bake kettle:

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After about an hour…Wowza!

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Simply put, this pie was mighty tasty and absolutely, downright
AWESOME! I’ve made it before, long ago, but WOW! I’d forgotten
just how good it is. And even though we suddenly realized after
all was said and done that we’d forgotten to put in the water, it
didn’t seem to matter. Definitely, this Chicken Pie gets the Crane
House Seal of Deliciousness. HUZZAH!

Next, from The Virginia Housewife (1824), by Mary Randolph:

Sweet Potatos [sic] Broiled.
Cut them across without peeling, in slices
half an inch thick, broil them on a griddle,
and serve then with butter in a boat.

Our sliced sweet taters were broiled both on a griddle hung
above open flames (below, left) and on a gridiron placed atop
hot coals (see the latter farther down this page*):

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A beet dish (seen to the right above, during the “stew” stage),
which was made per directions that’re also found in The Kentucky
Housewife
. I just love the final sentence in this receipt, wherein
the author tells how to store and preserve this root vegetable
for the winter:

Beets, Stewed.
Having boiled them till nearly tender,
scrape off the skin, cut the beets in
thick slices, put them in a stew-pan
with a little salt, pepper, vinegar, and
a good slice of butter, rolled in flour;
stew them a few minutes, and serve
them up with the gravy. Beets keep
well through the winter, buried in
heaps in the garden.

There’s nothing better, and more historically-realistic, than
multiple dishes cooking together above the flames or over
hot coals out on the hearth. Now, THAT’S a meal! HUZZAH!
(*more sweet potato slices are broiling on the gridiron)

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We also made a “pine-apple” tart, using the following receipt
from The Country Housewife and Lady’s Director…Part II (1732),
by Richard Bradley (our “pine-apple” pieces are stewing in the
kettle in the lower left, above
):

To Make a Tart of the Ananas, or Pine-Apple.
From Barbadoes.

Take Pine-Apple, and twist off its Crown:
then pare it free from the Knots, and
cut it in Slices about half an Inch thick;
then stew it with a little Canary Wine,
or Madera Wine, and some Sugar, till it
is thoroughly hot, and it will distribute
its Flavour to the Wine much better than
any thing we can add to it. When it is as
one would have it, take it from the Fire;
and when it is cool, put it in to a sweet
Paste, with its Liquor, and bake it gently,
a little while, and when it comes from the
Oven, pour Cream over it, (if you have it)
and serve either hot or cold.

Our lovely, mighty tasty, Tart of the Ananas:

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The Tart is served:

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The pastes, or crusts, for both the Chicken Pie and the Tart were
perfect. They were light, flaky, and flavorful, and our cooks did
a fantastic job. I must say, it’s always amazing (to me, at least)
what can be accomplished without modern “stuff.”

And lastly, we made a chocolate beverage using two different
receipts. The first is from the 17th century and can be found
in Sophie and Michael Coe’s The True History of Chocolate (an
excellent book, by the way!). The second is from Lydia Child’s
The American Frugal Housewife (1833, 12th edition).

St. Disdier’s Chocolate
Recipe 1 (“very good”)
2 lb prepared cacao
1 ½ lb cassonade (sugar)
6 drachm powdered vanilla
4 drachm powdered cinnamon

Chocolate.
Many people boil chocolate in a coffee-pot;
but I think it is better to boil it in a skillet,
or something open. A piece of chocolate
about as big as a dollar is the usual
quantity for a quart of water; but some
put in more, and some less. When it boils,
pour in as much milk as you like and let
them boil together three or four minutes.
It is much richer with the milk boiled in
it. Put the sugar in either before or after,
as you please. Nutmeg improves it. The
chocolate should be scraped fine before
it is put into the water.

Me and our intrepid hearth cooks (minus the three who had to leave early):

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I’ve received a few requests for the receipts (recipes)
we used during the hands-on Baking Workshop portion
of Deb Peterson’s recent Historic Foodways Symposium,
held this past August over at Ft. Lee, NJ. Various dishes
were made, including small and large cakes, boiled and
baked puddings, and a few sweetmeats. Most were
cooked either in the Fort’s bake oven or at its fire pit.
Of course, all made use of goodly amounts of glorious
sugar, which was the Symposium’s main topic. I think
it’s safe to say that all the participants thought each
dish was a delight to prepare, cook, AND eat. HUZZAH!

There were about a dozen receipts that we followed
during our day of baking. I’ll share just a few here,
including one that I later tried in my own kitchen.

___________________________________

First up is a receipt from the 1774 edition of Hannah Glasse’s
The Art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy:

To make a suet-pudding.

Get a pound of suet shred fine, a pound of flour,
a pound of currants picked clean, half a pound
of raisins stoned, two tea-spoonfuls of beaten
ginger, and a spoonful of tincture or saffron;
mix all together with salt water very thick;
then either boil or bake it.

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Next, from The Frugal Housewife (1772), by Susannah Carter:

Dutch Cakes
Take five pounds of flour, two ounces
of carraway seeds, half a pound of sugar,
and something more than a pint of milk, and
put into it three quarters of a pound of butter;
then make a hole in the middle of the flour,
and put in a full pint of good ale-yeast;*
then pour in the butter and milk, and make
these into a paste, letting it stand a quarter
of an hour before the fire to rise; then mould
it, and roll it into cakes pretty thin; prick them
all over pretty much, or they will blister; bake
them a quarter of an hour.

* We used 1 and 1/2 packets of dry active yeast, but we
were also given instructions for making our own “ale-yeast”

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A receipt from Mr. Borella’s The Court and Country Confectioner;
or, the House-Keeper’s Guide
(1772):

Nut Bomboons.
Take a pound of Spanish nuts [cacao], and
boil them in an iron pan; when they are
well boiled rub off their skin with a napkin,
if some stick too hard, pare it off with a knife;
take a tin grater and grate your nuts very
fine on a sheet of paper; then you take
a pound of powdered sugar, to a pound
of nuts, put it in a pan over a slow fire,
when your sugar is all melted in stirring
it perpetually with a wooden spoon, pour
your nuts in and work them well till all is
well mixed, and pour it upon a tin plate;
you have a wooden rolling-pin to spread it,
which you must be very quick in doing, for
it cools very fast; and when it is cold you
cut it in what form you please; you must
take care the sugar should not be too much
melted, for it is very apt to soften when
the nuts are joined to it.

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From the second edition of The Complete English Cook (1771),
by Ann Peckham:

To make a Wine Pudding.

Heat a pint of sherry, with cinnamon and
lemon-peel; grate four ounces of biscuits,
six eggs beaten with a little orange flower
water, and a little salt and sugar, a little
marrow and currants; bake it a quarter of an hour,
and when you serve it up, strew sugar over it.

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And lastly (for now, at least), a receipt from Richard Bradley’s
book, The Country Housewife and Lady’s Director…Part II (1732).
I made it recently for the Culinary Historians of New York’s (CHNY)
first meeting of the 2012-2013 season. The dish was fun to do,
even if I did have to use my mo-dern stove instead of a bake
oven! It was quite tasty, as well, and it quickly disappeared
during the evening’s program.

To Make a Tart of the Ananas, or Pine-Apple.
From Barbadoes.

Take Pine-Apple, and twist off its Crown: then
pare it free from the Knots, and cut it in Slices
about half an Inch thick; then stew it with a little
Canary Wine, or Madera Wine, and some Sugar,

till it is thoroughly hot, and it will distribute its
Flavour to the Wine much better than any thing
we can add to it. When it is as one would have
it, take it from the Fire; and when it is cool, put

it in to a sweet Paste, with its Liquor, and bake
it gently, a little while, and when it comes from
the Oven, pour Cream over it, (if you have it)
and serve either hot or cold.

________________________________________

NOTE: To the best of my knowledge, the receipts above match
those found in the original historic cookbooks. I was able to verify
several, as I either have the books or I found them online; others,
however, have not been vetted. If there are any errors, I apologize,
and I hope readers will let me know if any are found. Please and thanks!

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