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Archive for April, 2011

In my recent post wherein I shared pictures
of the peacocks at Pennsbury Manor, I also
mentioned there are many historic cookbooks
which contain receipts for cooking this exotic
bird. It would seem they were eaten often,
and were quite a popular dish, during the
Medieval and Renaissance periods. In fact,
it apparently may’ve appeared quite frequently
at King Henry VIII’s table, for there’s a receipt
in The Taste of the Fire, the little booklet about the Tudor kitchens
at Hampton Court Palace. It instructs the cook to first kill and roast
the bird, then to wrap the skin, feathers and all, around the cooked
meat before serving, so that it would look as it did when alive:

PECOK ROSTED
Take a Pecok, breke his necke, and
kutte his throte, And fle him, the skyn
and the ffethurs togidre, and the hede
still to the skyn of the nekke, And kepe
the skyn and the ffethurs hole togiders;
drawe him as an hen, And kepe the bone
to the necke hole, and roste him, And set
the bone of the necke aboue the broche,
as he was wonte to sitte a-lyve, And
abowe the legges to the body, as he
was wonte to sitte a-lyve; And whan
he is rosted ynowe, take him of, And
lete him kele; And then wynde the skyn
wit the fethurs and the taile abought
the body, And serue him forthe as he
were a-live; or elle pull him dry, And
roste him, and serue him as thou
doest a henne.

Of course, you could always just make a pie made up with peacock
meat and then stick the head and tail feathers into it:

Although they seemed to fall out of favor by the end of the 17th
century, peacock dishes were likely served now and then amongst
the well-to-do, even in this country. In fact, I understand that just
such a dish was prepared at Colonial Williamsburg not too long ago.
Unfortunately, I don’t know any of the specifics as to how it was
prepared, what receipt was used, and so forth. It certainly would
have been interesting to see!

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It’s not food-related, historically or otherwise, but I thought
I’d share some photos of some animals I saw while attending
Deb Peterson’s recent Symposium at Pennsbury Manor. First,
a very friendly kitty, and then several peacocks, including one
proudly struttin’ his stuff.

On second thought, I guess a peacock could be food-related,
particularly during earlier centuries! (There are many receipts
for preparing peacock in historic cookbooks. Yum! Or not.)

_______________

hmmm…Ms. (Mr.?) Fence-Sitter doesn’t seem too impressed!

his backside is purty, too!

a couple more were on the other side of the barn:

So there you have it, the kitty and the peacocks who live
at Pennsbury Manor!

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Thus far, I’ve mainly shown photos of just one group of participants
in the recent hearth cooking workshop that followed Deb Peterson’s
Symposium at Pennsbury Manor. Here now are a few of the second
group, as well as all the final dishes.

_______________

Clarissa Dillon checking the receipts:

First up, “To Stew Pears in a Sauce-Pan,” which is, oddly enough,
very similar to the “Peeres in Confyt” of King Richard II’s era:

Another pasty:

cooking is complete:

Pat Roos works on the stewed salmon dish:

Linda Ziegler and Clarissa deep in discussion:

Ronnie Pedersen checks on a second pasty:

preparing LOTS of sippets:

Finally, the spread of food was set out on the table. It all looks
mighty tasty…and it was! HUZZAH!

One last look at our (Jacob, Bill, and mine) lovely trout dish:

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More photos of the recent hearth cooking workshop in the kitchens
at Pennsbury Manor. As I mentioned previously, it was conducted
in conjunction with Deb Peterson’s annual Symposium.

______________

Eileen Mercer making force-meat balls:

dusted with flour and ready for a light frying before being stuffed
into hollowed-out cucumbers:

the “forced” cucumbers were then cooked:

our illustrious leader, Mercy Ingraham, speaks to participants:

fellow hearth cooks working diligently on the “Mutton Pasty” (yes?):

the finished “pasty,” hot off the fire; note the little ram figure
on the upper right:

adding a little gravy:

ready to serve:

another dish, “To stew Cucumbers”:

our illustrious co-leader, Nancy Webster:

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Finally (!), here is the first set of pictures I took during the hearth
cooking workshop that followed Deb Peterson’s recent symposium
at Pennsbury Manor. Overall, the group of about 24 made a dozen
or so dishes. Although we were split
into two groups, with one led by Mercy
Ingraham and Nancy Webster, the other
by Clarissa Dillon and Ronnie Pedersen,
everyone was free to move between
the two, and, in fact, was encouraged
to do so. I spent most of my time working
under Mercy and Nancy’s tutelage, but I did manage to “go to the other
side” now and then in order to check out what those folks were doing.

Naturally, in keeping with the Symposium’s topic, “Drink friendly to
Nature, and accommodated to General Use…,” each receipt (recipe)
we used called for one or more of the following: beer; wine, both
Claret (red) and white; ale; and sack (sherry). It was great fun,
most definitely! HUZZAH!

_______________

Photo-wise, I’ll start with the two dishes that I prepared together
with Jacob (or was it Jason?! just kidding!) Fish of Long Island
and Bill Martell of New Jersey.

First up was the receipt “Trout to dress, from Walton’s compleat
Angler,” which is from Mrs. Gardiner’s Family Receipts, a manuscript
cookbook of 1763 Boston. Now, the Angler was written by British
author Izaak Walton in 1653 (there were to be five editions in all).
The book is a comprehensive, information-packed treatise on fish
and fishing that includes: when and where to fish; the types of
baits to use and how to make your own; the history, origins, and
habits of different fish; general basic fishing advice; and so on.
It even includes a few poems and songs. However, I didn’t find
any receipt specifically for trout in the one version I found online.
There were a couple for other fish, but even so, none matched
Mrs. Gardiner’s. Perhaps I just need to look in another edition?

In the meantime, enjoy a few photos.

_______________

Our trout:

“…give him three Scotches with a Knife…” (although, I don’t
think we needed to do this, as we were working with fillets
and not the whole fish):

then “throw” in “a good quantity of Horse-radish Root…”:

“…put in as much hard stale Beer…Vinegar, and a little white Wine and
Water as will cover the Fish you intend to boil…”:

“Set your Kettle on the Fire…”:

Before long, it was ready to plate:

mmm, steaming hot trout:

add the butter sauce:

garnished with lemon slices, more horse-radish, and a few herbs just
for fun…mmm-mm-mmm, lookin’ mighty good!

Next, our posset. Interestingly, we used a receipt from Robert May’s
The Accomplisht Cook (1678). This seemed a bit odd to me for two
reasons. One, the people* leading the workshop, in fact, the entire
Symposium weekend, usually tend to stay adamantly in the 18th
century only; and second, if they’ve now decided it’s okay to use
a receipt from another century, particularly the 17th, then why
wasn’t something chosen from the Penn Family’s manuscript,
a work that’s connected directly to William and Pennsbury?

Nevertheless, our posset. Heating up the milk:

add the wine:

stirring continuously:

and finally, poured into Nancy’s reproduction posset:

__________

*Deb, Mercy, Nancy, Clarissa, and Ronnie are all members of the group
known as
Past Masters in Early American Domestic Arts

____________________

NEXT: what else was cooking?

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Whew. I’ve been busy the past few days! First, I attended Deb
Peterson’s Symposium on Saturday at Pennsbury Manor. It was
highly informative, as usual. I also participated in the hearth
cooking workshop in the Pennsbury kitchens that followed on
Sunday. Then, yesterday (April 12), was Culinary Historians
of New York’s (CHNY) monthly program, held here (finally!)
in Brooklyn, for which I spent a large portion of both Monday
and Tuesday making a mincemeat pie.

Of course, I have oodles of photos documenting all of the above.
It’ll take some time, however, to sort, download, and post them
all. There are only a few of my mincemeat pie making, though,
so I’ll show those first. That’ll give me a bit more time to tend
to all the others. But don’t worry, the photos of hearth cooking
at Pennsbury WILL be up here soon. I promise!

So, first up, the mincemeat pie I made for CHNY’s April event.
Again, the receipt (recipe) I used is from Martha Washington’s
Booke of Cookery, which originated in the 17th century. It includes
meat (in this case, veal), suet (beef fat), and a host of other
ingredients. All of which had to be minced, mind you. Which took
time, patience, and a whole lotta muscle. AND, this time, I didn’t
“cheat,” for I rolled out my own pie crust, thank you very much.
None of that “store-bought” junk this time. HUZZAH!

Incidentally, Martha’s receipt would’ve fit in well with all the other
dishes we prepared this past Sunday at Pennsbury, for it was
a meat pie, and it included “a quarter of a pinte of…sack.”

_______________

At the event, held at Bergen 61, a new bar space in Brooklyn:

_______________

Here’s the receipt. I cut all the quantities by four; thus, it was one
pound of meat, the same of suet, and so on:

To Make Mincd Pies
Take to 4 pound of the flesh of a legg
of veale, or neats tongues, 4 pound
of beefe suet, 2 pound of raysons
stoned & shread, 3 pound of currans,
halfe a pound or more of sugar,
3 quarters of an ounce of cloves,
mace, nutmegg, & cinnamon, beaten,
halfe a dosin apples shread, some
rosewater, a quarter of a pinte
o[f] muskadine or sack, some
candied orringe, leamon & citron
pill minced. shread your meat &
suet very fine, & mingle all togethe[r].
for plaine mincd pies, leave out the fruit
& put in blanchd almond[s] minced small.

____________________

NOTE: sack = sherry
pill = peel

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Appropriately enough, I spent this past Sunday cooking
at the hearth in the kitchen of The Israel Crane House.
It was quite a delightful way to spend the anniversary
of the birth of my passion for hearth cooking. HUZZAH!

_______________

Early morning at the Crane House:

Got a good fire going:

Fryin’ up some smoked salt pork (aka slab bacon):

Mmmm, gonna be some good eatin’!:

Simple “Johnny Cakes” of just Indian meal (corn meal) and water
would’ve been made during the winter, when things like milk,
eggs, and butter were mighty scarce. In fact, Lettice Bryan
has a receipt for such cakes in her cookbook, The Kentucky
Housewife
, only she refers to them as “Indian Water Cakes.”
So I made some, using corn meal, a bit of salt, and water.
They were quite tasty! Oh, and I again used the roasted
corn meal that I’d purchased last summer from Anselma Mills:

Slap ‘em on the griddle with the last of the salt pork:

However, it IS spring. Your chickens would again be laying eggs.
The cow probably would’ve just had a calf, meaning plentiful milk,
as well as cream for churning butter. So, I made more cakes that
were enriched with those very ingredients: eggs; milk; and butter.

As the chickens would be laying again, I also decided to demonstrate
how one would make a few hard boiled eggs. Now, I haven’t done
this very often, nor have I done it recently (well, other than at home
on my “mo-dern” stove), so I was both excited and a bit trepidatious.
However, there was no need to worry, as they boiled up beautifully.
HUZZAH!

My day of cooking at the hearth has come to an end. Farewell, ’til next time!

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First of all, I want to mention two things: with this post, I’ve hit yet
another blogging benchmark, for this is Entry Number 300; and, I’ve
been writing here now for nearly TWO years. HUZZAH!

More importantly, however, is the fact that, 20 years ago today,
April 3, 1991, I started working as an interpreter at (what was
then known as) Conner Prairie Museum (CP) in central Indiana. Yep,
if not for that fateful day, and the years that immediately followed,
this little blog would not exist. For it was at CP that my passion for
open hearth cooking, historic foodways, and culinary history was
born. My years at CP began oddly, and ended even more strangely,
but in general, it was some of the best years of my life. And overall,

that experience has served me well in years since. From the training
I received to the knowledge I gained to the nigh daily opportunities
to put it all into practice (and in front of hundreds of people, mind
you!), it is the basis of everything I’ve done with regard to open
hearth cookery during the past six years (and counting!). I’ve
certainly not only put it all to good use, but I’ve also made many
additions to, and expanded on, that experience, first at Lefferts
Historic House
and now at Wyckoff and The Israel Crane House.
My years at Conner Prairie gave birth to my current passion for
food history and hearth cookery. It was definitely time well spent.

____________________

The newspaper ad that started it all (eegad, I still have it?!):

Of course, I was familiar with Conner Prairie. I’d been there often
with school, camp, and other assorted groups. I’d always wanted
to work there, to wear the clothing and to pretend it was another
day and time. In short, I was drawn to the acting side of it. And
I tell you, after spending a few years “playing” in the 1836 Village
and then doing numerous acting gigs here in the Big Bad City, it
was most definitely THE best damn acting job I’ve ever had.
HUZZAH!

As to the headline in the above ad…funny thing is, I can remember
a couple of fellow interpreters complaining that those burger flippers
at McDonald’s and Burger King earned more per hour than we did.
Ahhh, well, but they didn’t get to do it over an open fire!

_______________

Here I am, just before my first day of working in the 1836 Village,
which, strangely enough, wasn’t until the end of July. Yep, I had
to spend nearly FOUR months NOT being in the Village. Something
about my working “only part-time.” Huh?!? What about those other
people who are “only” part-timers?!? Or the fact that your ad says,
specifically, “part-time job”?!? WTF…? It was absolutely, positively,
unbelievably wacko. I still don’t understand why I was treated
differently. Ahh, well…so it goes. Nevertheless, I was finally “in,”
and I was more than ready for some REAL “historic” play, er, work,
in a “loaner” outfit (sans apron) from the Museum’s Costume Shop:

The first character I portrayed was Abigail Bucher, the hired girl at
Dr. Campbell’s. It was my introduction to early 19th century cooking,
albeit on a cast iron cookstove and not at the hearth; this is where
I was first introduced to both The American Frugal Housewife and
The Kentucky Housewife, books I still use frequently today:

_______________

Now, we had to make all our own 1836 clothing. My first complete
outfit was made by another interpreter, but it was, um, well, a bit
odd and ill-fitting in places. So I figured I could do it better myself.
And once I started, I couldn’t stop! I ended up making three more
work dresses and numerous aprons and daycaps. I also branched
out by tackling several “non-required,” and sometimes challenging,
items such as a quilted sunbonnet, a winter lower-class bonnet,
an early 19th century shortgown, and a full-length cape. AND,
I became an expert at piping. Love, loved, LOVED inserting piping
any and every where I could. I was the Queen of Piping. HUZZAH!

_______________

Ada Noreen McClure, daughter of the town’s carpenter, was my second
character. NOW, it was finally time for cooking at the hearth:

By the way, that’s my niece, one Kelly Capehart, standing next to me.
She’ll soon graduate from Vassar College. Lordy, how time flies!

_______________

Then it was on to Lucinda Baker, wife of Isaac Baker, one of the three
(then-called) Baker brothers, all of whom were potters. Sadly, the one-
room cabin in the photo below is no more. First, it was greatly altered,
and then, eventually, it was torn down. What a travesty. I spent many
days happily “being” Lucinda and talking to folks while cooking outside
under the canopy of trees. HUZZAH!

_______________

I played several other characters, as well, ranging from Patience
Higbee to the younger Mrs. Whitaker to Laura Moore and so on.
I must say, however, that my favorites were anyone who cooked
and those who were members of the “lower” classes. Now, a few
of my fellow interpreters found the latter quite interesting. In fact,
when I was Lucinda, who was pretty low on the proverbial totem
pole, one of them used to voice her amazement at how someone
with a Master’s degree (me) did such a great job playing a lowly
character. (Hint: it’s called “acting”!)

Certainly, one of the highlights of working at Conner Prairie was
being given the opportunity to participate in the numerous special
programs. Candlelight, Maple Sugaring, Hearthside Suppers, and
others, to be sure, but also: being the “bride” (twice, to two different
guys!) in the 1836 wedding (kissie-kissie!); becoming “saved” when
the Camp Meetin’ came to town; assisting with pottery kiln firings;
cooking up scrapple during butchering; dancing with “my man Isaac”
during the Independence Day celebrations…. OH! the list goes on and
on. I even thoroughly enjoyed talking to all the visitors. In fact, I’m
sure some would say I never shut up! But I just loved sharing the who,
what, when, and why of whatever it was that I was doing. And all the
training that was offered, in a variety of different topics. I went to every
session offered, whether it applied to me or not. I was eager to learn as
much as I could. Then there was the working with a great group of people
(for the most part), day in and day out. I made alot of wonderful friends.
Golly, what other job offers up such amenities?!? I know of none. It was
simply pure joy to work in such a unique environment.

_______________

My sewing sampler, containing a specified assortment of different
stitches and such. Doing this and “passing” (which I did) enabled
me to sew out on the historic grounds. A similar “test,” along with
some reading, was required for knitting:

_______________

Well, I could go on, but I won’t bore you any further. I will, however,
add that I often miss playing in the 1836 Village at Conner Prairie. I
miss all that hustle ‘n bustle. And the people; luckily, I’m still in touch
with a few. It was all great fun. Yet, I firmly believe that I was there
during some of the Museum’s best years. Sadly, things have greatly
changed, and not necessarily for the better. It’s far from the place
I knew and loved, that’s for sure. And in many ways, I’m doing more
now of what CP used to be, at the historic sites where I do hearth
cooking. In any case, life goes on, I’ve moved ahead, and I have
wonderful, lasting memories that I will always treasure. HUZZAH!

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