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Archive for November, 2009

It was billed as the “Thanksgiving Kitchen Tour.”

“Tour the oldest kitchens on the site,”
read the accompanying copy, “to discover
the recipes and sources of Thanksgiving
traditions.”

It seemed to be promoted everywhere
on the website. Even had its own page
in the “Special Events” section, which
included a photo of a gal garbed in period
clothing, standing at an open fire and tending bravely to the contents
of a large kettle.

In other words, the implication was that, come out to Historic Richmond
Town
on Staten Island this weekend (November 28 and/or 29), and
you’ll see open hearth cooking demonstrations.

Unfortunately, however, that is NOT what was offered. Yep, silly
me, I went all the way out there, thinking I’d see period-dressed
people actually cooking. One subway and two different bus rides
later, all I got was the basic guided tour of five empty (i.e., people-less)
houses. Sure, our guide kinda made an effort to focus on the kitchen
areas at each stop, but gee…she wasn’t a hearth cook, she had had
no real cooking experience, and she was sadly ill-informed on many
aspects. I expected alot and got very, very little. It was EXTREMELY
disappointing. Nigh near a waste of time and effort. Others in my
group felt the same way. Even an HRT staffer expressed surprise
that, as part of an advertised “kitchens tour,” no one was actually
working any kitchen!

I was quite curious, as well, to hear and see just what they were going
to present as the “recipes and sources of Thanksgiving traditions.”
Particularly since there wouldn’t have been any during the various
time periods of the houses we were touring. Possibly the General
Store (at least, its era), but no other. Nevertheless, I was still eager
to see some actual COOKING! That was, after all, what I was promised.
Or, at the very least, what I was led to believe.

Naturally, I took my camera, expecting to take LOTS of photos
of people busy at the hearth. Well, I got the hearths, alright;
there’s just no people. Bummer. Of the highest order.

Anyway, here are a few. You’ll have to use your imagination and
pretend there’s someone cooking at the various hearths.

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The Voorlezer’s House (circa 1695), its basement hearth and bake oven:

The Christopher House (circa 1720 & 1730), hearth and bake oven:

My illustrious tour group:

The Basket Maker’s House (circa 1810):

(a few pots in the house could use a good cleaning!)

(look! a Muscovey duck that hangs around the place; I had one years ago;
this one is a bit better-looking; they can bite…makes for great watch-ducks!)

The Guyon-Lake-Tysen House (circa 1740; kitchen addition 1820s):

Our group is dwindling:

The Stephens-Black House (circa 1838; additions between 1839-1853):

Finally, some “pop-art” from the ferry ride home:

with a wave to Lady Liberty (or a wave-y Lady Liberty!):

and Manhattan lights from upon the water:

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annual festivities

Happy Turkey Day one and all!

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Thanksgiving is fast approaching, that annual holiday when
most everyone will be feasting on turkey, potatoes, cranberries,
pumpkin pie, and other goodies. It’s a fairly standard menu,
one that matches what those thankful settlers ate at Plymouth
all those centuries ago.

Or is it?

Well…maybe. Maybe not.

Before you go ballistic and accuse me of being un-American,
take a look at the following passage. It’s the one and only
eyewitness account of the feast at Plymouth that we try
to emulate year after year. It was written to a friend back
in England by a participant in the proceedings, Mayflower
passenger Edward Winslow.

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“Our harvest being gotten in, our governor sent four
men on fowling, that we might after a special manner
rejoice together after we had gathered the fruit of our
labors. The four in one day killed as much fowl as,
with a little help beside, served the company almost
a week. At which time, amongst other recreations,
we exercised our arms, many of the Indians coming
amongst us, and among the rest their greatest king
Massasoit, with some ninety men, whom for three
days we entertained and feasted, and they went out
and killed five deer, which they brought to the plantation
and bestowed on our governor, and upon the captain and
others. And although it be not always so plentiful as it was
at this time with us, yet by the goodness of God, we are so
far from want that we often wish you partakers of our plenty.”

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I’ll explore later what these words say and don’t say.
In the meantime, feel free to use them to amaze (and
shock?) your family and friends as you prepare your
Turkey Day feast!

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Ta-Da!

Yep, I made a Potato Pumpkin. HUZZAH!

I started with this left-over Halloween pumpkin:

Which, incidentally, was probably not the right kind. Of course, I don’t really
know WHAT kind it is. Nor do I have any idea, either, what was used down
at Williamsburg (should’ve asked!). It was, however, all I had, and I made
it work. I’d like to try the receipt again, but with a different variety; maybe
a cheese pumpkin or even something like a butternut squash.

In any event, here’s what I did.

First, I cut off the top and gutted it:

Then began the time-consuming task of removing the rind:

Ta-Da! Ready for the next step, adding the forcemeat (stuffing):

In the interest of time, I “cheated” and used a boxed stuffing mix. I know,
I know. Bad cook, historical or otherwise. But hey, it’s just an experiment
(for now, at least), so think even I’ll let it pass:

Into the oven it goes (pre-heated & set at 350).

Of course, I had to remove an oven shelf in order for it to fit. The remaining
shelf was then too low, so I raised it. I worried that the stalk might catch
fire or something, so I cut off about a half inch or so. (Probably should’ve
checked out all this beforehand, ay?!)

And out it comes:

Ready to eat:

Yes, of course, I ate some, and I must say, it tasted pretty good! HUZZAH!

The final analysis? As I said, the pumpkin I used probably wasn’t the best. I’d like
to try it again with another variety. Also, I cooked it at the specified 350 degrees,
for nearly an hour, and it probably could’ve stayed in for longer. I could’ve also
set the temperature higher, but I didn’t want to burn it. I think a slow cook is
best, anyway (and more historically-correct). Maybe it was my oven (it may be
a fancy-schmancy Viking, but I find it to be unreliable and tempermental…I hate
it). In any event, the modern adaptation of the receipt says to cook ’til it’s “fork
tender and stuffing is hot.” Well, parts were very “fork tender,” while others were
sorta, kinda, or not quite. Wonder what would happen with a thicker-skinned
pumpkin? The stuffing was indeed nice and hot, but just how hot is “hot”?
It’s clear that doneness is rather relative.

Nevertheless, I pronounce my Potato Pumpkin Experiment a success.
HUZZAH!
I can’t wait to try it again.

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Potato Pumpkin

I keep thinking about the Potato Pumpkin
that was made for use during the 18th
Century Foodways Symposium at Colonial
Williamsburg
this past week. I’m always
enthralled by such dishes, and I think this
one would be fun to do. And since I have
a spare pumpkin left over from Halloween,
I think I shall! I got the little orange orb
out of the “pie pumpkin” bin, so it should
work? I just have to find the time to do it. Hmmm…. Maybe I could
make it for my annual Chrismakkah (Christmas/Hanukkah) Dinner.
Problem with that is, I’ll have to wait three weeks or so. The pumpkin
may not last ’til then! I don’t know that I can wait that long, either.
Hmmm…guess I’ll have to give this more thought.

In the meantime, however, here’s the receipt. It’s from Mary Randolph’s
The Virginia Housewife: Or Methodical Cook: A Facsimile of an Authentic
Early American Cookbook
, which was first published in 1824. As I
mentioned previously, oddly enough there’s no potato in it. That is,
of course, unless you include it in your forcemeat (aka stuffing).

POTATO PUMPKIN

Get one of a good colour, and
seven or eight inches in diameter;
cut a piece off the top, take out
all the seeds, wash and wipe
the cavity, pare the rind off,
and fill the hollow with good
forcemeat—put the top on,
and set it in a deep pan,
to protect the sides; bake
it in a moderate oven, put it
carefully in the dish without
breaking, and it will look like
a handsome mould. Another
way of cooking potato pumpkin
is to cut it in slices, pare off
the rind, and make a puree
as directed for turnips.

Here’s the modern adaptation, courtesy of the Foodways Staff
at Colonial Williamsburg.

Potato Pumpkin

1 small pumpkin
Breadcrumb stuffing mixture

***Cut the top off the pumpkin,
remove the seeds, and peel
the rind.
***Stuff the cavity with breadcrumb
mixture. Replace the top.
***Put pumpkin in a baking dish
in a 350 degree oven. Bake
until fork tender and stuffing
is hot.

Sounds easy enough, ay?! I’ll let you know when I make mine
and how it turns out.

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Late Saturday night, I returned home from my trip to Colonial Williamsburg
where I attended the Symposium on 18th Century Foodways. Despite a few
minor glitches, such as a lost (albeit temporarily) camera and monsoon-like

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blustery winds and pelting rains, it was a fantastic week. I’ve added
much to my knowledge of cooking and dining 1700s-style, in colonial
Virginia and elsewhere. Everyone who worked on putting it together
did a marvelous job. They definitely deserve a hale ‘n hearty HUZZAH!
I’m looking forward to the next one.

As a final wrap-up of sorts, I thought I’d share a batch of miscellaneous
pictures from my journey to the past at Williamsburg.

_______________________________________

The Governor’s Palace, Bruton Parish Church, the courthouse, Wythe House:

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Setting the gentry table:

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Stuffed pumpkin ready to serve (called “Potato Pumpkin,” although there’s
not necessarily any potato in it):

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Lessons in proper etiquette:

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Historic cookware exhibit in the DeWitt Wallace Museum:

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The Governor’s coach passes by:

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The dining room of the Peyton Randolph House:

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The PRH kitchens:

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And the scullery:

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The newly-reconstructed Charlton Coffee House:

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The Palace kitchens:

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and assorted Palace rooms:

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(wall covering made of leather)

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The chocolate maker:

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The mason (brick maker/layer):
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And finally, the train to take me home:

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Farewell, ’til next time!

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If you’ve seen any weather reports recently, you know that Virginia
and other states in this area (and elsewhere, for that matter) have
been pummeled relentlessly these past three days by a nor’easter.
An “Historic November Nor’easter,” to be exact. And so here I am,
with my Big Plans to partake of as much of the Colonial Williamsburg
Experience as possible on Wednesday afternoon and all day Thursday.
I valiantly tried to use my remaining time to scurry about the Historic
Area. Unfortunately, the onslaught of torrential rains and hurricane-type
winds made it nigh impossible. I saw very little AND got royally soaked
in the process. dagnabit.

In the end, I was only able to tour the Governor’s Palace and to then
spend some time chatting with the gals in the kitchens. Not being able
to see more was rather disappointing, to say the least.

In any event, here are few photos.

First up, the Governor’s Palace:

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Then the Palace Kitchens:

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The Fife & Drum Corps go marching (yes, in the rain):

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Then today (Friday), as part of a special donor event, I watched as various
tradespeople discussed and demonstrated the particular skills that they
utilized (carpenters/joiners, blacksmiths, masons) or will use (chocolate
maker) in the newly-reconstructed Charlton Coffee House:

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And finally, again as a donor, I attended a special reception this evening.
Good food and music were on tap. A suitable ending for this trip back in time.
HUZZAH!

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Wow. Two days-plus of non-stop dwelling on 18th Century foodways.
Just simply fantastic. HUZZAH!

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Here’s a quick (?) run-through, complete with a few photos, of my 18th Century
Foodways Symposium experience here at Colonial Williamsburg.

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Monday morning, we learned the how and why and what and where
of typical upper class meals (aka the genteel gentry). The film footage
we were shown of dishes being prepared in the Palace Kitchen here
at Colonial Williamsburg demonstrated it all loud and clear.

Then it was lunch at Christina Campbell’s Tavern, followed by various
focus workshops in the afternoon. I scurried on over to the archaeology
department to hear about all the investigative work that was done for
the new, soon-to-open Charlton Coffee House (which incidentally, was
capped off with a special look-see Tuesday evening).

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Next, on to the ice cream making session, which, unfortunately, was rather
disappointing. There was not only far too many people, but the room was
WAY too small. Would’ve been better to maybe do it outside or in another
building or something. The presentation (what I could hear of it) was
rather unorganized, disjointed, and, well, just poorly done overall.

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Then dinner at the Kings Arm Tavern with several new-found friends.
Roast beef with Yorkshire Pudding was my entree of choice (of course!).

Tuesday morning, we were treated to demonstrations of how to set
the table, from napkins and cloth to platters and plates.

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Then came how to behave at a gentleman’s table, complete with people
in 18th Century garb partaking of a meal, some of which behaved very
badly. It was informative AND hilarious!

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Vital etiquette tips were demonstrated throughout the “meal,” all of which,
naturally, should be remembered and employed at your next dinner party.

Napkin in lap, not tied ’round the neck:

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Don’t point with food or your eating utensils:

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Know how to properly carve meat:

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and finally, of course, “Cleanse not your teeth with the Table Cloth.”

In the afternoon, I took a tour of the Peyton Randolph House Dining
Room and Kitchen, wherein we were able to see assorted artifacts
up close and personal.

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the Peyton kitchen:

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From there, I went to the Palace scullery to make beer. It was a great
presentation. One thing I learned was that a farmer’s wife making her
own beer for the family would likely start with molasses and not malted
grain. Good to know for my doin’s out at Wyckoff.

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Then, as I mentioned earlier, it was off for a quick peek at the newly
constructed Charlton Coffee House.* It was fun to see the end result,
so to speak, of all the archaeological work I’d heard about the day
before. It will be a very nice addition to the historic area. HUZZAH!

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And after that, the closing banquet. Even Thomas Jefferson made
an appearance! He spoke briefly, then fielded questions from
the audience. Fascinating.

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Wednesday morning, it was up and out to the Rockefeller Library to look
at numerous original cookbooks owned by Colonial Williamsburg. I just
may have to come down again sometime to study each and every one!

So, there you have it. Overall, it was one of the best conferences
I’ve attended. It was so wonderful to have the Williamsburg staff,
all those that deal with foodways day in and day out, discuss, explain,
demonstrate, and share their expertise. HUZZAH to one and all!

______________________________

*see also 11/16/2009 for more photos, including the Charlton Coffee House

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lost and found

HUZZAH!

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Whew. Yep, I found my camera! Silly me, I’d gone and left it in the auditorium
of the DeWitt Wallace Museum. It was found (thank you, whomever, SO MUCH!)
and then turned in to the Symposium folks. HUZZAH, once again.

So, without further ado, here are several photos from yesterday, starting
with the exterior and interior of the church I attended, to various scenes
around Colonial Williamsburg, to the Symposium Keynote Speaker, food
historian extraordinaire Ivan Day.

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Wow! It’s my first full day here at Colonial Williamsburg. It started
out nice enough. The ending, though, not so much. dagnabit

Let me explain.

I started my day by going to church. Then I went into Merchants Square
and looked around a few shops. Had a great sandwich at the Cheese
Shop for lunch (was definitely NOT a fast food joint!). Eventually,
I wandered over to the DeWitt Wallace Museum in order to register
for the 18th Century Foodways Symposium. After collecting all my
materials and looking around the Museum for just a bit, I decided
to use the hour or so remaining until the Program’s start to check
out what’s along Gloucester Street. Naturally, it wasn’t long until
I found a few goodies to purchase in some of the shops.

Soon, it was time to return to the DeWitt Museum for the start
of the Symposium. Saw several people that I know. Then, lo and
behold, standing right there, was a friend and former co-worker
from my days at Conner Prairie, the one and only Terry Sargent.
HUZZAH! I hadn’t seen him in years. It was quite a pleasant surprise.
What a treat. It was fun catching up on what he’s been doing and
reminiscing about our days at CP “way back when.”

Next up was the evening’s keynote speaker, noted international
food historian, Ivan Day. He gave a wonderful presentation about
elegant dining in the 18th Century. As usual, his talk was highly
informative and well-researched.

Then…well, this is where everything sorta fell apart. Of course,
I took lots and lots of photos throughout the day. Pictures of
buildings and people…even of Ivan…. But unfortunately, there
are none included here. And why is that? Well…after Ivan’s talk,
I went back to Gloucester Street (to Lumber House to be specific),
in order to purchase a ticket for the special night tour of shops
and workplaces of tradespeople. I got over there, and suddenly
discovered that I HAD MISPLACED (okay, LOST) MY CAMERA.
dagnabit.

Soooooo, no camera. no photos. at all. I am so bummed.
dagnabit.

I sure hope I find it. Otherwise, these posts are gonna be BORING.
Yep, things had started out so well this morning, and now this.

DAGNABIT

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