Well, whadaya know?! The receipt for preserving whole mulberries
that’s in The Frugal Housewife and American Cookery is also
in Eliza Smith’s The Compleat Housewife (London, 1758). Eliza’s
version is exactly the same as Frugal’s, “pretty thick” segment
and all. Which makes me wonder even more about Simmons’
little, yet somewhat major, switch to “thin.”
In addition, I’ve found that there are several receipts for using
mulberries in Martha Washington’s Booke of Cookery. Though
the book was in Martha’s keeping from about 1749 to 1799,
it’s believed that it was started at some point during Medieval
times. There are four separate receipts. Three are for making
a “sirrup” (syrup) of mulberries, similar to the one in the other
three books. The fourth is for a mulberry marmalet (marmalade):
To Make Marmalet of Mulberies or Rasberies
Take to a pound of mulberies or rasberries,
halfe a pound of sugar, which must be well
wet with rose water & boyled to a great height.
then let your berries be strayned & put the
liquor into the sugar. stir it well, & then take
it of [off] the fire before it seeths,* & stir it
till it be allmoste cold, & then box it.
*seeths: boils
