Historic Cookery

While at the grocery store early last week, I noticed that raspberries
were abundant AND on sale. They were only $4 for two six-ounce
packages. HUZZAH! I’d been in another store earlier where they
were that amount just for one container. And having bought them
numerous times before, particularly in summers past, I am well
aware that the price can fluctuate wildly from store to store and
even from week to week.

Now, as of last week, I hadn’t really made a decision yet as to what
to provide as a beverage at this week’s Fireside Feasts workshop (or
even whether to offer one at all) at the Wyckoff Farmhouse Museum.
But since I just couldn’t pass up such a bargain, the choice was
suddenly crystal clear: we’ll have Raspberry Shrub!

There are receipts (recipes) for Raspberry Shrub in numerous historic
cookbooks. All of them are basically the same, but I prefer the one
in Lydia Child’s The American Frugal Housewife (1833). It’s probably
because it’s the one we often used when I worked at Conner Prairie.
In fact, I began reminiscing about that very thing as I stood at my
modern stove the other night, patiently stirring the raspberry and
vinegar mixture…

I was in the Campbell House portraying the hired girl, Abigail Bucher,
and we were making shrub with raspberries fresh off the vine on that
hazy Indiana summer day when the late John Denver bounded in and
cheerily inquired “What’s cooking?” Being a huge, HUGE fan, I of course
went absolutely nuts! I recall stating that I’d probably get in a heap
of trouble for saying anything, but that I just HAD to. Then I wiped
my flour-covered hand (I’d just made biscuits or a pie or something)
on my apron, shook his hand, and just started gushing and babbling
non-stop. It was about the only time I ever went “out of character”
in front of the public. You see, we did what’s known as “first person,”
and that was something you were never, ever supposed to do! (and
I rarely did, I’m proud to say). But…that day, I couldn’t not.
Wow. What a thrill that was. **Sigh**…such fond memories!

Um…ahem…sorry…I digress.

So anyway, I made up the shrub syrup at home that we’ll then
use this coming Thursday. It could be done during the program,
which I would prefer. We could even use the berries that are
growing at the Museum; but, unfortunately, there really isn’t
enough time (or possibly enough fruit) to do it all that night,
especially with the other items we’ll be preparing and cooking.

Here’s Mrs. Child’s receipt for Raspberry Shrub:

Raspberry shrub mixed with water is a pure,
delicious drink for summer; and in a country
where raspberries are abundant, it is good
economy to make it answer instead of Port
and Catalonia wine. Put raspberries in a pan,
and scarcely cover them with strong vinegar.
Add a pint of sugar to a pint of juice; (of this
you can judge by first trying your pan to see
how much it holds;) scald it, skim it, and
bottle it when cold.

The resulting mixture will become quite syrupy, or even jelly-like,
as it cools (particularly if it’s put in the refrigerator). Later, add
a spoonful or two (or three, or more, depending on your own taste
preferences) into a glass of cold water, stir, and enjoy. You can add
more sugar at this point, if so desired.

Thanks to the use of vinegar in the preparation, and to our modern
refrigerators, jars or bottles of raspberry shrub will last a long time.
However, it IS such a wonderful summer-time drink, that I doubt
you’ll be able to resist drinking it all!

HUZZAH for Raspberry Shrub!