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Archive for May 21st, 2009

More dough

Here’s another bread receipt I want to try. It’s from Gervase Markham’s
The English Hus-wife, published in London, England, in 1615.

Manchets were made of the whitest of white flour (the most preferred),
and they were always leavened with either yeast or barm, and not sour
dough (starter). Few written receipts exist for this bread, most likely
because they weren’t needed; everyone knew how to make it.

Note that, unlike Martha Washington’s receipt (posted 5/20), the one
below has no milk. Adding ingredients such as milk or eggs created
what was known in earlier centuries as an enriched bread. Which,
incidentally, was a characteristic of most all French breads.

Of course, the most intriquing part of the following receipt is
the instruction to fold the dough into a cloth and then knead
it “with your feete.”

**********************************
Of baking Manchets

Now for the baking of bread of your simple meales,
your best and principall bread is manchet, which you shall
bake in this manner; first your meale being ground upon
the black stones if it be possible, which makes the whitest
flour, and boulted through the finest boulting cloth, you shall
put it into a clean Kimnel, and opening the flower hollow
in the midst, put into it of the best Ale-barme the quantity
of three pints to a bushel of meale, with som salt to season it
with: then put in your liquor reasonable warme, and kneade
it very well together, both with your hands, and through
the breake, or for want thereof, fould it in a cloth, and
with your feete tread it a good space together, then
letting it lie an howre or thereabout to swel, take it foorth
and mould it into manchets, round, and flat, scorcht
about the wast to give it leave to rise, and prick it
with your knife in the top, and so put into the Oven,
and bake it with a gentle heat.

**************************
Kimnel: kneading tub
brake: kneading device
scorcht: slashed

wast: waist

(copied as written)

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I’ve happily spent about six hours during each of the past three days making
several different kinds of bread. So far, it’s been challenging, tiring, exciting,
informative, tiring, and fun.  Oh, and did I mention tiring?! 

In general, bread is pretty basic.  It’s flour, yeast, and a little salt, all which
is allowed to rise or “proof” twice. Then it’s shaped into loaves and baked. 
What makes one bread different from another is often just the extra
ingredients that are added:  the mixture of different flours (white, rye,
whole wheat); the addition of items such as herbs, raisins, currants, nuts,
olives, and so on; yeast proofed in milk instead of water; and so on.

Now I’m taking this course so that I become more comfortable in working
with yeast bread dough and in knowing what constitutes a proper loaf. 
In addition, the instructor and I have discussed the interpretation and
use of historic receipts (recipes).  I’m hoping that I’ll be able to use one
of them before the class ends.

To that end, here is one of the historic receipts I am considering:

TO MAKE WHITE BREAD

Take 3 quarters of a peck of fine flower, & strow
salt in as much as will season it. Then heat as much
milke as will season it luke warme, & hould it high
when you poure it on to make it light. & mingle
with your milke 4 or 5 spoonfulls of good yeast.
worke your paste well, & then let it ly a rising
by the fire. your oven will be hoted in an houre
& halfe; then shut [it[ up a quarter of an houre,
in wch space make up your loaves & then set them
in ye oven, an houre & halfe will bake them.

–from Martha Washington’s Booke of Cookery
“a Family Manuscript…copied…in the 17th Century”
in Martha’s “Keeping” from 1749-1799

(copied as written)

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